The route through Snaefellsbaer, part two

Icelandic

The route through Snæfellsbær

Part two

By Road No. 574 there is a lay-by with a sign commemorating Guðríður Þorbjarnardóttir, the first European woman to have a child on the North American continent about 1,000 years ago; she was born at Laugarbrekka, a farmstead south of this point which is now deserted, but where farmhouse outlines can be seen in the grass. The road proceeds across the river Dagverðará, which forms the southern boundary of an area that is to be declared a national park. There is a lay-by at Svalþúfa and the rock-stacks Lóndrangar, which are the remains of volcanic plugs. Svalþúfubjarg is an impressive bird cliff from where there is a fine view over the jagged coastline to the east and south. Nearby is Malarrif, the last farm between Hellnar and Gufuskálar that is still inhabited.

Further west lies Djúpalón. A side road branches off down to a stopping-place at Nautatraðir, from where a short walk brings one to the beach itself. Djúpalón is a beautiful spot with its black basalt sand and sparkling sea, and in fine weather the Snæfellsjökull glacier looms majestically in the background, its flanks covered in the filigree patterns of old lava flows. On the beach at Djúpalón are four famous stones used by fishermen (who rowed out from Dritvík, nearby) in trials of strength: Amlóði ("Hamlet"), Hálfdrættingur ("Half Measure"), Hálfsterkur ("Half Strong") and Fullsterkur ("Full Strong"). Some remains of a British trawler that was wrecked on rocks on the north side of the bay in March 1948 can be seen on the beach at Djúpalón. Relatives of men who lost their lives in the wreck still visit the site, and for this reason the remains have not been removed.

A short walk brings one to the bay Dritvík, which for centuries was a hive of activity with small boats rowing out to fish. The ruins that remain give some idea of the rough conditions in which the seamen of past ages lived. On the southern side of the bay stands a large cliff called Tröllakirkja ("Trolls' Church"), which can be reached at low tide. It is said that Bárður Snæfellsás and his companions celebrated a sacrificial rite in the cave on the east side of Tröllakirkja after putting ashore in Dritvík. As one travels on round the end of the peninsula one passes the remains of many small craters.

Litli Saxhóll is one that offers a pleasant walk to view the crater with its collar of lava, and Hólahólar, further south is a large oval crater, open at the east end, that cars can drive into. It is like an amphitheatre, with good acoustics. MóÐulækur, a stream flowing across Gufuskálamóður, will be the northern boundary of the projected national park. Immediately after crossing the bridge, a road branches up through Eysteinsdalur above the lava north of the glacier. It opens the way into the higher ground and brings one to many interesting places and walking paths with fine views.

Where the main peninsular road Útnesvegur turns east to Gufuskálar, a jeep track branches off west to Öndverðarnes. This is where the currents in Breiðafjörður and Faxaflói meet, and the sea is never calm. There was a farm at Öndverðarnes right up to the 1950s, and it was an important fishing station in previous times. The only water supply in this area, the spring Fálki, which never runs dry, is a short distance from the farm ruins. On the way to Öndverðarnes it is interesting to stop and look at Skarðsvík; on the way back, those who do not suffer from a fear of heights can enjoy looking at the sea churning below Svörtuloft.

A milstone at sunset in Snæfellsbær.

Maries wholy spring at Hellnar.

The mistique Rauðafells canion.

On the Snæfell glacier.